Sunburst Component ~ Part 1 ~ The Outer Rows

I have been so busy lately that I haven’t had much time for designing … 

I decided it was high time to do a Bead Weaving post for you. 

This is and Intermediate Level project.

If you need a primer for Brick Stitch around a Frame ~ you can get mine in My Shop or in my Etsy Shop.


  • 1 – 25mm Gunmetal Hoop (soldered closed type)
  • 2 – 3 Grams – 11/0 Toho Seed Beads – Silver Lined Frosted Gray 
  • 1 – 2 Grams – 11/0 Toho Seed Beads – Silver Lined Milky Grapefruit 
  • 1 – 2 Grams – 11/0 Czech Glass Seed Beads – Jet Opaque  
  • 19 – 2.5x5mm Czech Glass Superduo Beads – Jet Opaque
  • 1 – 14mm Orange Dyed Shell Coin Bead
  • Size 11 or 12 Beading Needle
  • Approx. 5 ft. of .006 or .008 Fireline or Wildfire Beading Thread
    (If you plan to make Earrings – Double the list of course.)

Feel free to use any colors you like.
If you are not an experienced bead weaver, I suggest you stick with the sizes of items in the Materials list.

Row 1

In this technique, the hoop acts as the thread bridge. The starting position of the working thread will be to the back of the frame. 
Tie the tail of the thread to your hoop using 2 overhand knots. 
Start your first row of brick stitch on the outer edge of the frame by picking up 2 Frosted Gray Seed Beads. 
Remember to pass the needle through the hoop before passing back up through the last bead you picked up. 
Continue the Row adding one bead at a time. 

(Note: I am left-handed so the last bead picked up is on the left.)

The goal is to have an even number of beads added in this Row. 

I separated my beads out in sets of 12 beads so I could insure my finished row would work out evenly. 

I used a total of 38 Seed Beads for Row 1.

As you work, keep an eye on your tension. 

The beads should sit side by side with no large gaps between the beads. (See photo above)

Turn the hoop as shown on the left to make sure the beads are laying flat on the same plane as the hoop and not bulging out on either side. 

After you add the last bead ~ remember to close the bead work and straighten the very first bead. 
If you need a refresher on this step, you can check out my Videos on YouTube. I have several that demo this technique. 

Row 2

In this rowI decided to use Superduo 2-hole beads. I have never used these specialty beads for an entire round before and I must say re really like the effect. 

Note the position of the working thread exiting the top of an 11/0 from the previous round. 

Pick up a Superduo and let it drop to the bead work as shown to the right. 

Once again you will note that I have positioned the open hole of the bead to the left because I am left-handed. 


As you pass down through the open hole of the Superduo, pass down through the next 11/0 bead as well,

This secures the bead completely to the bead work and gives a perfect alignment to the entire row. 


Before we can add the next bead we need to step back up to the top of Row 1.

Pass the needle up through the next 11/0 in line to get into Position for the addition of the next Superduo.

Repeat these two steps until you come all the way around the bead work. 


When you have added the last Superduo:

Step up by passing up through the next 11/0 and the First Superduo added in this round as shown on the left. 

Note: I am passing up through the right hand side of the first Superduo because of the direction I stitched as a lefty. 


Row 3 ~ Embellishments

In this round we will embellish the bead work for 3 reasons.

  1. We want to cover the exposed thread on the top of the Superduos.
  2. We need to connect the Superduos together to add stability to the piece. 
  3. We want to enhance the look of the component. 

This row will be stitched using only the holes of the Superduos. We do not want to sew into the 11/0 beads of row 1.

Note the position of the working thread. In this round, I will be stitching toward the right. (If you are right-handed, you will stitch to the left.)

Pick up 11/0 Gray – 11/0 Jet – 11/0 Gray

Pass down through the next Superduo as shown. 

Make sure to pass only through the Superduo and not the 110/ underneath.

Before you can pick up the next three bead sequence, you must step up.

Pass the needle up through the 2nd hole of this same Superduo.

Repeat these two Steps until you come all the way around the bead work.

As you add the last three bead sequence ~ Do Not Step-Up!

In Conclusion

That brings us to the end of Part 1 in this Series. 

In Part 2, we will add inner rows of Bead work to the component first. 
Then I will show you how to add the gorgeous Coral toned breads to hide the exposed thread along the side of the frame. 


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