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Today we are going to wrap up this series by connecting the two halves of the bangle with a lovely crystal focal area and add the final section which we will use to connect the ends into The Twisted Orchard Bangle

We have learned a few new techniques to add to our design arsenal along the way. 

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In Part 1 of the series, we learned a new step up for traditional Twisted Tubular Herringbone Stitch and how to create a more extreme version of the stitch as well.

We also learned how to create a mirrored image from a center point in the first section.

In Part 2 of the series, we learned how to add a ladder stitched ending to the section that is exactly like the ladder stitched base we started with. 

Finally we learned the techniques to reverse the direction of the twist for both traditional and extreme Twisted Tubular Herringbone, finishing the first half of the bracelet. We made the second half identical to the first. 

If you are just joining in on this project, read the Intro for all the details and the full materials list for the Twisted Orchard Bangle primer and project. 

The Focal Connection

The first thing we need to do is figure out what to do with the working threads on each half of the bangle. 

You are going to need about 10 to 12 inches of thread to connect your sections at the focal point and you will need about a wingspan for the last step of the project. Both should be exiting the starting bead of column one.

If you have enough on each half, pick the longest one and weave that back down to the opposite end of that piece. You can simply pass down through the other side of column one and the 2 crystals on the base. 

If you think you need more thread weave off your old thread and make sure your new thread is exiting the first seed bead of the first column after you weave it on. 

Connecting Column 1

You can click any picture in my tutorials to enlarge them at anytime. 

Line your two halve up so that the colors of each columns go together in the right order.

The bead sequence for each pick-up is

2 Crystal – 1 Color A – 2 Crystals

  • Pick up bead sequence and sew down through 3 seed beads on the opposite piece of bead work. 
  • Sew up three seed bead on the other side of the same column.
  • Pick up bead sequence and sew across the center and down three seed beads in the corresponding side of the column on the other side.
  • Step up by passing up through one bead of the next column.

Column 2

This column is the trickiest one to connect. Make sure you have the proper columns lined up and that the first set of connecting crystals is not twisted up before you start.

Repeat the steps above for this column using the same bead sequence for your pick-ups.

Remember that the second column is made up of two colors and sew down the same color on the opposite side of the center. 

Column 3

This is the easiest column to connect.

Repeat the same steps using the same bead sequence for your pick-ups.

After adding the last set of beads to to last side of the last column, step up one bead back into the first column and sew across through all the crystals and 3 seed beads on the other side. 

Reinforce the crystal sections by following the same thread paths in each step above. 

After you have finished reinforcing the crystals you will end your thread by either weaving it off or tying a series of half hitch knots. 

Remember to move away from your last knot before cutting or burning it off the project. 

Forming the Bangle

Measuring

At this point in the project, your bead work should look like this. 

Now you need to determine the length of beadwork you need to finish the bangle.

The bangle needs to be wide enough, once closed, to fit over the widest part of your hand. 

Measure your completed bead work and compare it to the measurement you get in the next step to determine how long the final section needs to be. 

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When measuring for a Bangle, you use the same technique as for a regular clasped bracelet, you simply change the position of the tape measure from the wrist area to the hand. 

Follow the Steps Below to Measure for a Bangle:

  1. Using the Tape Measure or a String/Ribbon – Pull your thumb inwards under the hand and measure around the widest part of your hand (typically around the knuckles at the base of your fingers.
  2. Add a 1/4 inch to this measurement to allow the bangle to pass over the knuckles smoothly. 

The Final Section

The next step is to determine which direction you want the last section to twist.

I chose to make my last section twist to the right, the same as the first sections created in Part 1 of the project. 

You will need around a wingspan of thread on your project. As noted above, I had simply woven one of my earlier working threads straight down the to other side of the first column and passed through the two crystals on the base. 

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This step put me into exact position to start the new section. 
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Once you are in position with your working thread, simply repeat all the steps from Part 1 to create the last section of Twisted Tubular Herringbone.

With the seed beads I chose for the project, my sections are exactly 2 inches long. So my overall length turns out at 8 inches of Bangle. 

If you need to shorten the section try doing only 5 rows of the extreme twist. This will shorten the section by approx. 1/4 inch.

If you need to reduce more, you can reduce the step one, the tubular herringbone section and step two the traditional twisted herringbone sections by a few rows.

Just remember the count of rows for each of those steps so you make the same amount on the other side of the center. 

If you want the twist to be reversed, follow the steps in Part 2 of the project, reversing the twist. The same rules apply for making adjustments to the size.

Once you have completed the section, your working thread should be exiting the starting position of the first column again.

Sewing the Ends Together

Begin by lining up your ends so that the columns line up correctly.

You will simply sew down through the 2 crystals on the base that line up with new section.

Sew up through the two crystals on this side and down one bead on the other side of the column on the new section. 

Roll your work and step up one bead into the next column.

Repeat the steps above for the remaining two columns by:

  • sewing down two crystals on the base side
  • stepping up through the next two crystals
  • sew down one bead on the other side and
  • stepping up one bead into the next column

At the end of the second column, check the fit of your bangle before you proceed. If you need to make adjustments to the last section, remove the needle and back track. 

If the fit is good, at the end of the row, step up into the top seed bead for column one and sew across the crystals.

Reinforce the thread path between the crystals and the top seed beads of the last twist section once more.

Weave the thread off or tie a few half hitch knots. Move away from the last knot and end the thread.

This design is so versatile. You can change the bead sizes, colors and the patterns for the columns as you desire.

You can create a single strip of bead work and close the bangle while creating the focal section. You can use other beads in place of the crystals.

The possibilities are nearly endless.

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I hope you have enjoyed making the Twisted Orchard Bangle with me and that you use the variations of Twisted Tubular Herringbone to create many beautiful projects of your own.

Please click like and share this post with your friends and fellow beaders. 

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